This is a wine that thrives on tension between its structure, opulence, elegance and poise. It is certainly ripe and opulent, but it is so well balanced and layered with acidity, and flavors of almonds, orange peel and kiwi fruits. It will certainly age.

: "Pale yellow. An enticing blend of red berries, butter and toast on the nose; this settled down to an earthy, smoky character that reminded me of Batard-Montrachet. Full and rich, with flavors of musky yellow plum and ripe pear accented by crisp mineral notes. Really long and vibrant on the building finish, if not as precise or elegant as the 1996. Still, of the two vintages, this is the one I would prefer to drink over the next five or years or so." (Nov/Dec 05)

Broad and airy in texture, with enticing candied berry, citrus and coffee aromas and flavors. It has bright acidity, keeping it well-defined through the lingering finish. Drink now through 2010.